𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐠𝐨𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐧 𝐑𝐨𝐚𝐝 𝐨𝐟 𝐍𝐚𝐫𝐨

…”𝑾𝒆 𝒂𝒓𝒆 𝒔𝒐 𝒄𝒍𝒐𝒔𝒆 𝒕𝒐 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝒄𝒂𝒑𝒊𝒕𝒂𝒍, 𝒃𝒖𝒕 𝒔𝒕𝒊𝒍𝒍 𝒍𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒍𝒊𝒌𝒆 𝒘𝒆’𝒓𝒆 𝒊𝒏 𝒂 𝒓𝒆𝒎𝒐𝒕𝒆 𝒂𝒓𝒆𝒂.” – 𝑮𝒚𝒆𝒎 𝑻𝒔𝒉𝒆𝒓𝒊𝒏𝒈, 𝑮𝒖𝒑 𝒐𝒇 𝑵𝒂𝒓𝒐 𝑮𝒆𝒘𝒐𝒈

By Lhendup Wangmo

For years, the people of Naro have hoped that the road connecting them to Thimphu would eventually fulfill its purpose. But with each monsoon that washes away sections and each winter that buries it under snow, their hope is tested. The final stretch of the 26-kilometre road remains rough and incomplete, making travel a seasonal challenge. Despite these difficulties, the community continues to push for progress.

Nearly two decades after the Naro farm road project began, residents of Naro Gewog in Thimphu say the road is still far from complete and continues to disrupt daily life. Although the road has reached the gewog, more than half remains in poor condition.

Gyem Tshering, Gup of Naro Gewog, said the gewog administration has made multiple efforts to advance road construction, including allocating local budgets for initial clearing and basic infrastructure. “We used our gewog budget for the first road cutting. After that, drainage and soling were done. Even the Small Development Programme (SDP) has supported it, and gewog officials are actively working on it,” he said.

The road, extending over 26 kilometres, is intended to benefit at least 74 households in Naro. However, its poor condition continues to hinder access and mobility. “When the Druk Phuensum Tshogpa (DPT) was in power, work on the road began. But even after all these years, it’s not fully completed,” said Gyem Tshering. “Sometimes the dzongkhag takes it up, and other times it’s handled by the Public Works Department (PWD). But even though the road has technically reached us, the condition is really not good.”

He noted that while initial permissions were obtained from the Forest Department, formal clearance took time. Though the necessary approvals are now in place, full-scale work has yet to resume. “About 8 kilometres of the road have been blacktopped, and another 8 kilometres have base course laid. But the remaining 13 kilometres is still just a rough road,” he said.

Villagers face high transportation costs because only sturdy vehicles like Boleros can handle the terrain. “Hiring a vehicle costs Nu 6,000 to Nu 8,000,” Gyem Tshering said. “Vehicle maintenance is also expensive due to the rough condition. Even though we are so close to the capital, we are still living like we’re in a remote area.”

The road is essential not only for residents but also for services and visitors. “We have a school, a Basic Health Unit, and a veterinary hospital here. Even tourists use this route. The dratshang and officials from Lingzhi Gewog also travel this road,” he added.

He expressed concern over the lack of clarity regarding who is responsible for maintaining and upgrading the road. “Sometimes we don’t even know if the public has to maintain the road or if the government will do it. There has been some support, but it feels like we have been neglected.”

The community now awaits the implementation of recently announced government plans and funding that they hope will finally bring lasting improvements to a road they have depended on for nearly 20 years.
Tshomo, the Chiwog Tshogpa, said that despite the presence of a road, residents still face year-round difficulties. “The road condition is still a major issue. In summer, landslides and roadblocks cut us off. In winter, it becomes icy and dangerous due to snowfall. These seasonal issues make travel extremely risky or even impossible. For villagers here, this road is a lifeline. When it’s blocked, everything becomes difficult- seeking medical help, sending children to school, buying essentials, or attending official meetings.”

She added that travel to Thimphu for basic supplies remains expensive. “Transportation costs are high, and drivers often hesitate to come up here, especially when the weather is bad. Some families pay thousands of ngultrum just to bring in groceries or building materials.”

Accessing government services is also a challenge. “For gewog meetings or trainings, we have to go to Kawang where the gewog office is. That means using this same difficult road repeatedly. And for emergencies, it’s even worse. There have been times when it took days for health workers to reach the village, or for patients to be carried out on foot because vehicles couldn’t get through. That’s just heartbreaking.”

For small businesses and farmers, the road presents further difficulties. “It’s hard to bring in supplies or sell what we produce. Without a proper road, development always feels out of reach. We are grateful for the road’s existence, but we really hope the upcoming plans will make it usable throughout the year. Our people are hardworking and patient but we need this change to move forward.”

Sangay Wangdi, the Health Assistant of Naro Gewog, said the road’s condition seriously impacts healthcare delivery. “It affects our hospital services a lot. During the COVID-19 pandemic, we had a vaccination program planned, but heavy monsoon rains blocked the road. We couldn’t reach the gewog, and we couldn’t ask the people to come down either. That day, we ended up sleeping in the forest because we couldn’t move in either direction.”

He recalled another emergency case involving appendicitis. “We had to walk three days from the Basic Health Unit to reach the patient. By the time we got there, the appendix had already burst. A better road could have saved crucial time. So, a good road is essential not just for the recipients of healthcare but also for us as providers. In summer, we worry about landslides; in winter, snow makes the road risky. A safe, accessible road would make a huge difference.”

Lhamo, a 55-year-old resident, said the road has improved but still brings many challenges. “What was once a horse trail is now motorable, but it still brings more hardship than comfort. We used to walk for hours with horses. When the road came, we hoped life would get easier. But whether it’s monsoon or snow, the road doesn’t make travel easier, it just changes the type of struggle.”

She shared the financial burden of basic errands. “To buy groceries, we have to go all the way to Thimphu. If the vehicle goes empty downhill, they don’t charge. But the return trip can cost Nu 4,000. If we’re charged for both ways, it’s Nu 8,000. For villagers like us, that’s a huge cost for essentials.”

Lhamo also mentioned difficulties with official travel. “Our gewog office is in Kawang, so we have to use this road even when it’s risky. It may exist, but it’s far from reliable. We are grateful vehicles can reach us, but we still live in uncertainty. One landslide or patch of ice can cut us off. We don’t expect luxury- just a safe, dependable road. That would make a real difference.”

Tshering Yangki, a shop owner, said her business suffers due to the unreliable road. “Running a shop here isn’t just about sales- it’s about survival. During monsoons and winter, we can’t restock goods because no vehicles are available. Even when we manage to get one, transport costs are extremely high.”

She said transportation expenses cut deeply into her income. “It’s like living hand-to-mouth. Whatever little we earn goes into vehicle charges. If the road improves, transport costs will drop, business will grow, and we’ll finally see some progress.”

Safety is another concern. “The road is narrow and risky. If there’s an accident, it could take several lives. That fear is constant,” she said. Yangki also spoke of emotional stress during important times. “During festivals, demand is high, but sometimes I am stuck in Thimphu due to roadblocks. It’s stressful because our children are at home.”

She no longer sells perishable goods. “Vegetables rot or dry up before they’re sold. The delays make it impossible to manage perishables. Despite all this, I am committed to serving my community. If the road improves, it’ll benefit both sellers and buyers.”

For the monks of Naro Dratshang, road connectivity was expected to bring ease, but instead, it presents daily challenges. Chencho, Head of the Dratshang, said the poor condition affects even basic needs. “Transporting groceries during monsoon is difficult due to roadblocks and landslides. Deliveries are delayed for days.”

He said power outages are common because landslides damage electric poles. “We have lived without electricity for weeks, even months. When the road is blocked, the power division can’t restore lines. Monks live in darkness, and daily routines are disrupted.”

Rituals are also affected. “We used to travel to conduct ceremonies, but now we have posted a substitute Lama in Lingzhi because travel from Naro has become difficult,” Chencho said.
“Travel becomes risky during heavy snow or rain. Monks carry supplies on foot when vehicles can’t pass. It’s especially hard on younger monks,” he added.

Despite the hardships, Chencho remains hopeful. “We don’t need luxury- just a stable, safe road that allows us to live and serve without fear of being cut off.”

Despite partial progress, the road remains a significant obstacle. It affects daily life, healthcare, education, and economic opportunities. The community’s resilience is evident in their continued efforts and unwavering hope. As they await government action, the question remains: will their persistent calls for development finally lead to the change they have long sought?