𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐕𝐢𝐭𝐚𝐥 𝐑𝐨𝐥𝐞 𝐨𝐟 𝐋𝐨𝐜𝐚𝐥 𝐑𝐢𝐜𝐞 𝐏𝐮𝐟𝐟 𝐒𝐧𝐚𝐜𝐤𝐬 (𝐌𝐚𝐲𝐤𝐡𝐮) 𝐢𝐧 𝐋𝐨𝐜𝐚𝐥 𝐄𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐨𝐦𝐢𝐞𝐬

…𝒍𝒐𝒄𝒂𝒍 𝒔𝒕𝒂𝒑𝒍𝒆 𝑴𝒂𝒚𝒌𝒉𝒖 𝒆𝒗𝒐𝒍𝒗𝒆𝒔, 𝒆𝒎𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒄𝒐𝒎𝒎𝒖𝒏𝒊𝒕𝒊𝒆𝒔 𝒂𝒏𝒅 𝒊𝒏𝒔𝒑𝒊𝒓𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒚𝒐𝒖𝒕𝒉 𝒆𝒏𝒕𝒓𝒆𝒑𝒓𝒆𝒏𝒆𝒖𝒓𝒔𝒉𝒊𝒑

By Tashi Tshomo

Maykhu, affectionately known as fried puff bread, holds a cherished place in the hearts of both locals and travelers along the scenic Thimphu Punakha highway. Crafted from paddy flour, these small rounds undergo expert kneading and deep-frying to achieve a delightful golden-brown hue, resulting in a crunchy yet airy texture.

According to oral history, maykhu has existed since the 1960s, but it reached the height of its popularity in the 2000s. Its popularity soared when the residents of Gamaluma began packaging and selling it in the quaint town of Lobesa. Nowadays, it’s common for locals to wholesale this delightful treat to distributors. Communities situated along the highway take pride in their maykhu-making skills, and initiatives like Bhutan Blossoms contribute to the promotion of local products, including maykhu. Despite facing challenges during the nationwide lockdown, the resilient people of Gamaluma, Lobesa, Sepotkha chiwog under Barp Gewog, Punakha, are planning to resume their maykhu business. For the people of Gamaluma, Maykhu is the only source of income.

Kinley Choki, a 22-year-old maykhu maker, said, “I have vivid memories of my parents selling maykhu, and it’s fascinating to witness the evolution in its production, packaging, and pricing over time. Maykhu has undergone a transformation, resulting in a spicy variant. This new type of maykhu incorporates a mixture of salt, chili powder, black pepper, and flour. As a result, there are now two distinct types of this snack available.”

Lhamo, a 49-year-old resident of Lobesa, Punakha, said, “We initially started producing Maykhu in 1995, and since its inception, it has been our primary source of income. Through the earnings generated from maykhu, we have been able to sustain our livelihood, covering all our essential needs and ensuring our children receive education.”

Lhama also mentioned, “Previously, the maykhu business brought in substantial earnings for us. However, with the rise in ration prices, our profits have gradually declined. While some customers used to come directly to us for maykhu, nowadays we often have to actively seek out buyers. Unfortunately, we haven’t found other effective strategies to enhance our business. Our only recourse has been to produce two distinct varieties of maykhu in red and white colors.”

“Currently, we utilize advanced equipment for maykhu production, a significant upgrade from our previous manual methods. This technological advancement has notably boosted our output and subsequently increased our earnings. We are immensely grateful for the introduction of such equipment. However, despite the efficiency gains, we’re constrained by the fixed selling price of Nu.50 per unit in our village. The community is steadfast in maintaining this price, making it difficult for us to adjust. This fixed pricing, coupled with the abundance of sellers, poses challenges, especially when we produce large quantities that struggle to find buyers,” she added.

“Additionally, sourcing firewood for the stove presents another obstacle, as it’s increasingly challenging to find and extract, adding further complexity to our operations. Therefore, if the government could address the issues of plastic packaging for maykhu and the sourcing of firewood, which significantly impact our ability to sell the product, it would greatly alleviate the challenges we face,” she implores.

Deki Wangmo, a 35-year-old resident of Gamaluma, Barp Gewog said, “Engaging in the maykhu business has proven to be a boon for us. Over the past three years, it has been our mainstay, sustaining our household, covering our children’s school expenses, and enabling us to repay loans. The decision to enter this business was driven by its undeniable benefits to our livelihood. However, while producing and selling maykhu ensures a steady income stream, it’s not particularly lucrative. It essentially yields neither profit nor loss. To promote our product, we package and distribute it to other districts and markets.”

Deki Wangmo also expressed, “In my view, emphasis should be placed on enhancing the quality of our product. By improving its quality, we can garner local popularity, leading to increased demand. As the product gains fame, our sales and earnings naturally rise. Moreover, maintaining hygienic production practices is crucial for boosting sales. We are consistently striving to elevate the quality of our products and ensure hygienic production processes, which significantly boosts sales. Therefore, our focus remains on enhancing quality and maintaining strict hygiene standards.”

“I personally haven’t encountered any significant problems or challenges in this business so far. However, I’m aware that many others face difficulties, particularly due to the abundance of producers and limited buyers. Therefore, if the government could facilitate access to markets for selling our products, it would greatly benefit us,” Deki added.

Nidrup Lhamo, a 49-year-old resident of Toebisa Punakha, shared, “I have been involved in procuring and selling maykhu for approximately a year now. Our demand typically consists of around 10 packages per week. We source the product from Lobesa and retail it here. Before placing an order, we meticulously inspect the product’s quality and freshness. I usually prefer to purchase from a specific seller known for their quality. Once ordered, the product is delivered to us via a local transport service. We find that selling maykhu here yields better sales compared to other areas. While we don’t rake in huge profits, it serves as a supplementary income. On successful days, where all 10 packages are sold, we earn approximately Nu.400, and if not, around Nu.300.”

Furthermore, Nidrup Lhamo added, “Occasionally, the stock we bring in one day sells out by the next. To mitigate the risk of unsold inventory, we refrain from ordering large quantities. Instead, we opt for fixed, smaller quantities and replenish our stock as needed. We purchase maykhu from Lobesa at Nu.60 per package and retail it here for approximately Nu.90-100. Personally, I have sampled our ordered products and can vouch for their high quality. Since we operate on a smaller scale, we’re able to avoid losses and consistently turn a profit from our sales. Our strategy of procuring small quantities ensures minimal risk and allows us to maintain profitability.”

Tashi Dorji, with 19 years of experience at Bhutan Agriculture and Food Regulatory Authority (BAFRA) in Thimphu Thromde said, “In my observation, there are two distinct roles in the maykhu industry: producers and sellers. Producers typically focus on production and don’t directly engage in selling. Therefore, it makes sense for sellers to hold licenses rather than manufacturers. In our market, it appears that all sellers are licensed. We prioritize consumer safety through rigorous monitoring, with BAFRA offices in every dzongkhag and satellite towns. Specifically, in Punakha, we have an office located in Wangdue, ensuring consumer safety in the region.” Tashi Dorji further elaborated, “Specifically concerning maykhu, we don’t have separate regulations for its production. However, we do have overarching food regulations that encompass various food items, including maykhu. As for training, while we don’t currently offer specific training for maykhu production, we do provide training for food handlers responsible for food production, handling, and transportation. We consider the production and selling of maykhu to fall under this umbrella. In Thimphu, we conduct such training sessions on a monthly basis. While I can’t commit to it at the moment, considering maykhu as part of the food industry, it would be beneficial to include training on maykhu production in the near future.”

In Thimphu, Pema Tshering Lepcha, a long-serving personal of Bhutan Food and Drugs Authority (BFDA), sheds light on food sales licensing. Lepcha explains that while not all sellers require licenses, especially those operating from home, permanent shop owners must obtain them. Interestingly, the government not only permits but also encourages unlicensed sales to support livelihoods. Lepcha also delves into the department’s commitment to food safety, detailing swift outbreak responses, scientific investigations, and in-house testing, all in line with the 2005 Food Act. Additionally, there are general training sessions covering serving, catering, and sales, aimed at raising awareness about food safety. While not mandatory, participation is encouraged, as collective knowledge benefits both sellers and consumers. BAFRA officials stationed across dzongkhags play a pivotal role in managing any outbreaks and providing support. These measures highlight Bhutan’s dedication to ensuring food safety and consumer well-being.

Dechen Pelden, a 24-year-old who expressed her love for maykhu as her favorite morning treat, especially enjoying the spicy variety, shared her thoughts. She emphasized her preference for maykhu that strikes the perfect balance between crunchiness and softness. Dechen said, “I often request my friends to bring maykhu whenever they visit Lobesa.” Furthermore, she shared her loyalty towards a particular maykhu seller situated along the route to the Wangdue-Punakha highway. This allegiance stems from a past unfortunate experience when she encountered spoiled and stale maykhu elsewhere. However, the seller she patronizes consistently offers only fresh products, ensuring a satisfying experience for Dechen and maintaining her trust. Dechen also suggested an improvement to the packaging system.

She believes that incorporating clear labeling with manufacturing and expiry dates would greatly benefit consumers. This would help prevent instances of consuming old or expired maykhu, which could not only impact health but also tarnish the reputation of all involved parties due to the actions of a few.

Maykhu holds a special place in Bhutan’s culinary heritage, symbolizing tradition, innovation, and community spirit. Despite the challenges faced, stakeholders remain resilient and optimistic about the industry’s future. Through collaborative partnerships and a focus on quality, sustainability, and community support, the maykhu industry is poised for continued growth along the Thimphu-Punakha highway and beyond.

Furthermore, maykhu beckons as a beacon of hope for unemployed youth, offering a pathway to economic empowerment and community engagement. Encouraging a departure from conventional employment paradigms, maykhu epitomizes the untapped potential within local landscapes. By harnessing the allure of maykhu, individuals can cultivate entrepreneurial endeavors, fostering not only financial stability but also contributing meaningfully to environmental conservation and equitable development.