𝐘𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐠 𝐔𝐩𝐬𝐡𝐢𝐟𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐃𝐞𝐟𝐞𝐧𝐝 𝐋𝐚𝐲𝐚𝐩 𝐈𝐝𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝐀𝐠𝐚𝐢𝐧𝐬𝐭 𝐂𝐥𝐢𝐦𝐚𝐭𝐞 𝐏𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐮𝐫𝐞𝐬

…𝑳𝒂𝒚𝒂𝒑 𝑺𝒕𝒖𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒕𝒔 𝑳𝒆𝒂𝒅 𝑬𝒇𝒇𝒐𝒓𝒕𝒔 𝒕𝒐 𝑷𝒓𝒆𝒔𝒆𝒓𝒗𝒆 𝑨𝒕𝒕𝒊𝒓𝒆 𝒊𝒏 𝒂 𝑾𝒂𝒓𝒎𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑪𝒍𝒊𝒎𝒂𝒕𝒆

By Yeshey Lhadon

In the remote highlands of Laya, where cultural heritage runs deep, a group of young “upshifters” has taken on a unique mission. As climate change increasingly impacts their community, these four Class IX students from Laya Middle Secondary School are pioneering initiatives to preserve their traditional attire and practices while adapting them to environmental challenges. Pema Lham, Dorji Yuden, Namgay Tshering, and Tenzin Thinley are stepping up to protect their unique culture and heritage against the backdrop of rising temperatures, resource scarcity, and modern influences.

Fifteen-year-old Pema Lham speaks about the impact of climate change on her community’s traditional clothing, particularly the Zum (a thick, protective garment worn by Layap women) and the Zhamu (a unique conical hat). “We can’t wear Zum when the temperature is high,” she explains, pointing to how it was once essential for the cold high-altitude climate but now feels uncomfortable as temperatures steadily rise. These shifts force her and her classmates to think critically about how to adapt, preserving cultural attire even when traditional uses begin to shift.

One of the biggest challenges these young upshifters face is the sourcing of materials for traditional garments. The Zhamu, for instance, is crafted using sturdy bamboo, which has become scarce in recent years. “Bamboo doesn’t grow in my community, so people have to travel far to get it,” Pema added, highlighting that the need to go farther for materials is both costly and time-consuming. This distance not only threatens the availability of materials but risks eroding the skills necessary to make the Zhamu as only two community members are able to take up weaving.

For these students, the traditional Zum and Zhamu are not just clothing, they represent a cultural legacy. Dorji Yuden, also 15, believes that losing these items would mean losing a vital piece of their identity. “If these traditional items are lost, so is a piece of our cultural legacy,” she said. With this in mind, they have begun advocating for awareness and programs that integrate climate resilience with cultural preservation, hoping that these efforts will allow Bhutanese traditions to adapt and thrive despite environmental challenges.

In their quest to protect cultural attire, the students have proposed several ideas, including heritage legislation and integrating traditional practices into more sustainable, climate-friendly designs. Namgay Tshering, 17, emphasizes the importance of eco-friendly production methods, envisioning a future where the traditional Zum and Zhamu could be crafted in a way that honours both tradition and the environment. “We would refuel the fabric industries with climate-resilient, sustainable practices to ensure the culture of Zum and Zhamu flourishes,” he says, hopeful that sustainable alternatives might preserve both the tradition and the environment.

For Tenzin Thinley, an additional strategy lies in weaving traditional attire into daily life, especially within the school. “Wearing Zum and Zhamu frequently at school could contribute toward minimizing climate change by reducing the need for demonstration effects and other climate-harming attire,” he said, reflecting on how increased use of Layap attire could reduce reliance on modern fashion trends that often have a more significant environmental footprint.

These young upshifters are not alone in their efforts. Chimi Dem, affectionately known as Aum Kaka, is a 49-year-old artisan who has been weaving the Zhamu for over two decades. Trained by her father, she recalls, “Maybe I was destined to earn my livelihood through weaving this sacred Zhamu, although I didn’t intend to be one when I started alongside my father.” Aum Kaka has observed firsthand how the warmer climate has altered her work environment, emphasizing how uncommon it is for this season to lack the intense cold typical of their high-altitude home.

Aum Kaka also shares her concern about the generational shift away from traditional garments. Many younger Layap women today prefer lighter alternatives such as the Kira, Bhutan’s national dress, or even Western clothing. This shift reflects changing priorities and the Zum’s decreasing practicality. To ensure that traditional weaving skills are not lost, Aum Kaka recently trained eight students at the request of Laya Middle Secondary School’s vice principal. Remarkably, four of the students mastered the basics of Zhamu weaving in just three weeks, a skill that typically takes months to develop. “I am glad that some picked up the skill quickly, as it usually requires at least three months,” she says, hopeful that these young weavers will keep the craft alive.

While weaving provides a livelihood for artisans like Aum Kaka, it is not without challenges. Despite earning around Nu 130,000 (roughly USD 1,600) annually from her craft, her sons have shown no interest in continuing the family tradition. Traditionally a male-dominated skill, Zhamu weaving has become her primary source of income as she balances household responsibilities and cares for her grandmother. For her, weaving is not just a craft but a way to contribute to her family and uphold her heritage.

Similarly, 60-year-old Dorji, also known as Ap Dodo, has been weaving Zhamu hats for over 40 years. He crafts around 40 to 50 hats each year, supplementing his income with the collection of cordyceps and highland incense. Ap Dodo believes that weaving can be accessible to anyone interested, regardless of gender, hoping that his work will inspire others to take up the tradition.

Laya Middle Secondary School is also playing a critical role in integrating traditional attire into student life. Once a week, students are encouraged to wear Layap attire to foster pride and a sense of connection to their heritage. “Our main purpose is to foster a sense of pride and connection to our unique culture among the students,” says Principal Kinley Dorji, explaining that wearing Zum and Zhamu reminds students of the distinct identity of the Layap people.

To deepen this connection, the school plans to offer weaving instruction as an extracurricular activity, with artisans like Aum Kaka and Ap Dodo guiding students in traditional techniques. By embedding these skills within the school’s curriculum, Principal Kinley Dorji hopes to secure a sustainable future for Layap craftsmanship. “In a rapidly changing world, it’s important that we balance innovation with tradition,” he emphasizes.

This initiative has received support from the local Gewog administration, led by Gup Tshewang, who has encouraged local schools to preserve this heritage by mandating traditional attire at least twice a week. Yet, challenges persist. The Zum’s unique design depends on sheep’s wool, which is increasingly difficult to obtain. While some wool is sourced from Bumthang, the supply is insufficient to meet the community’s needs. In 2020, the Gewog administration attempted to revive local wool production by distributing sheep among residents, but all the sheep were lost to predators. “In three years, we lost all 60 sheep to wild animals. Today’s generation lacks the experience of our forefathers in rearing sheep, and the land is full of Tsadhug, a poisonous grass,” Gup Tshewang said.

As the upshifters, community leaders, and schools work to keep traditional practices alive, they face the dual pressures of modernization and climate change. For Layap children, donning their traditional dress each week is more than just a requirement, it is a way to reconnect with their roots and embody their heritage. “We want our children to connect with our roots,” Gup Tshewang said, stressing that this connection will be vital for the future of Layap culture.

Supported by a journalism reporting grant on climate change and children from UNICEF through JAB, this story highlights how Laya’s community is adapting in the face of a changing climate, forging a path for tradition, resilience, and a future where both can coexist.